We heard on the news today that the sun today broke a rain record. It was the second coldest April and the eighth wettest since 1960 in Santiago. They were interviewing pilgrims that finished the Camino without having one day without rain. We feel you peregrinos. Yet we are pleased to announce our first full day without rain. I think it misted for a minute and was otherwise humid but no downpours or showers the whole day. It was even hot! We busted out the sunglasses and hat even. We hope it continues. We do see sun and warmer temps for Saturday and Sunday, which bodes well for a trip to Finisterre Sunday.
It’s amazing what a dry day will do. I cranked through the kilometers and wasn’t too beat up by the end of our 29km day. Thursday will be 19km and Friday will be 20km into Santiago. Woo woo!
We stayed at Hotel Benilde in Palas de Rei past night. It was a great find and I’d highly recommend it. The place was spotless. Being a dirty pilgrim, we tracked in a little mud and someone was cleaning it up five minutes later. The concierge was so friendly and spoke slowly enough for us to understand. He pointed out places to eat and the super mercado on a map and when the room was ready insisted on carrying my heavy pack to the room. Everyone was so nice.
Today was scenic with the sun and all the green rolling hills and little towns we’d pass through. We crossed a bunch of rivers and saw plenty of cows, horses, dogs and rude pilgrims. I think we have had our fill of mean people. How hard is it to muster an “hola” when someone says hello? Or do you have to scowl at people when walking by?
Jonathan and I are naturally fast walkers. This isn’t new to the Camino. Jonathan is even crazier because he’s one of those people that walks faster on the hills going up. I take the slow and steady approach, and I don’t mind that he zooms up the hills. He’s usually waiting at the top for me. We tend to pass a lot of people not because we want to race them but mostly because they just have a slower pace than us (or they’re smoking and we don’t want to breathe it).
An older German man caught up to me as I paused mid hill and pointed at Jonathan ahead and said, “speed is not good”. Not in a joking kind of way but in a matter of disapproval. Caught off guard, I just said that was his normal speed on hills. He walked by Jonathan a the top and said “speed is not alright” and walked past him. Was it really necessary to make such a comment? What if we said “your poor packing job is bad for your back?”. To each his own. Everyone is allowed their own approach to the Camino and should do what works for them. If it’s slack-packing (van transport of bags) or taking a taxi, so be it. There is no one right way.
In another instance today, we passed two more Germans (no love for the Germans today unfortunately) whom we’ve wished Buen Camino to before and received a harrumph in reply. We always pass anyone with a smile and hello or Buen Camino at least. These guys gave us the dirtiest looks. Then after we passed they sped up and walked right behind me as if they wanted to pass us out of spite. They eventually backed off. It was like road rage but on a hiking path. It was so odd.
Whatever. We try to look beyond the negative and mean people and embrace the true spirit of the Camino. We have met some really great people along the way. If you can’t find that spirit within on the Camino of all places, then best of luck to you in the world amigos.
I can’t believe the end is near! St. Jean seems so long ago and many of the days blur together. In spite of the oppressive weather and the weeks of horrible feet, I’m still glad we did this together. It has been unforgettable and pushed me well out of my comfort zone which I easily get stuck in. It has been a journey.
One I look forward to completing Friday and will post more on later. Thanks for all the well wishes and support along the way.
Our first cafe con leche outside in partial sun! Day 33.