Welcome to Galicia.
Will you be continuing on via boat or Ark?
Just when you think you have the upper hand on the Camino and figured things out, someone lets you know otherwise. I really didn’t think it was possible, but we had our wettest day yet. I can’t comprehend how the clouds can hold so much rain.
We slept like a baby at an ACDC concert in La Faba and tried to leave early but it was too dark. We left around 720am under heavy rain. When you’re soaked 20 minutes in from starting you know it’s going to be a long day. It was about 5km to O’Cebreiro which is about 4300 feet in elevation. It was pretty steep over rocks and mud but we kept thinking still not as intense as St. Jean. Someone must of heard those thoughts because we got smacked down today.
We couldn’t see the amazing views from O’Cebreiro because of the fog and rain unfortunately. Instead we stopped for a coffee and toast and an attempt to dry out. The dry people that stayed there the night before did not look enthused to start their day after seeing us.
We left as the first wave from La Faba started to arrive. The rain just kept coming. A steady stream or river flowed down the path and when it stopped it left pools of mud. Our feet and shoes were so wet that water came out of our shoes with each step. After a while soap bubbles from the laundry detergent were foaming through even. There was no point in changing socks or clothes. I kept trying to rally mentally thinking I could power through 19 km more without stopping. Finally in Biduedo, about 6.6 km from Triacastela I had to stop. I was so worried that I wouldn’t be able to warm up since I was soaked and couldn’t change. We even were hit with snow pellets for a stretch. We went into the bar and I stood near the fireplace trying to thaw out. When I could feel my hands and arms we left. Into another downpour. I was so cold. This was the second other moment during the Camino that I seriously considered taking a taxi or bus. If one rolled by and opened the door I would’ve gladly jumped in. I can say now (warm and dry in the albergue) that I’m relieved I didn’t give in. It may be stubborn, it may not have been wise, but I’m determined to finish this sans automobile. I don’t know why that is so important to me but it is.
Maybe it was the fear of hypothermia, or the hot coffee we just had but I got a second wind and channeled the inner fuerte and finished that last 6.6km like nobody’s business. I usually don’t end the days with such vigor but I wanted off the mountain and out of the rain. At one point I yelled into the heavens for mercy. It then answered with more wind and rain.
About 2km from town the sun came out. I said that when we were close to or in Triacastela it would rain again. Sure enough it did. Today felt like It was kind of this cruel joke. I can relish the fact that we survived and were humbled by it all now. At about 11am today, not so much. I don’t know how Jonathan stayed so positive.
Anyway, with all that hullabaloo my feet weren’t that bad. It looked like I had been soaking in a bathtub all day but no new blisters. We have a private room in albergue Complexo Xacbeo. At the top floor with beautiful views of the mountains we are so grateful not to be in anymore. The rain stops and starts every 20 minutes. Each time I think that I’m so happy to be inside.
The good news is that we are now in Galicia which means: pulpo (octopus), caldo (galecian stew), lots of x’s and z’s, and that much closer to Santiago. Jonathan says the forecast in Santiago for this Thursday is sun and 80 degrees! We arrive on Friday so we’ll assume snow of course. No seriously. I expect sun and warm weather in Santiago or I’m asking for a refund.
We are going to venture out again for dinner and some supplies. Tomorrow is an easy 18km to Sarria. Even if the weather is like today, at least it will be short.
I didn’t take many pictures today mostly because I was afraid to take the phone out of the Baggie.
These are from our albergue. The sunny one lasted about five minutes. Most of the day looked like the cloudy one though.