It’s now two days since we completed the Camino and I find myself missing a few things. It’s not the three course pilgrim menus, nor the questionably safe bunk beds in albergues. I miss the spirit. Sure I wrote about a lot of instances when good spirit was lacking but if you looked a little further you’d find it again. Maybe it was a familiar face that you walked with or met many towns before that said hello or asked how you were doing. Or a store owner who was proud to help pilgrims or point them in the right direction. A local that watched you pass and wished you a Buen Camino.
Whether you walked the Camino or not, we all look for the light or an air of good tidings that reminds you of the good in humanity not the selfish ‘every man for himself’ mentality. I am reminded that I may have to look a little harder to find the good at times. And to not get irritated at the little things, like 20 people rushing the door to get on a bus pushing people out of their way. That would be adults pushing others. Sigh.
I also miss the walking. Now I say this cautiously. I do not miss taping and treating my feet as a result of the walking. But I miss the fresh air and the movement. It must be the years of being trapped behind a computer. I hope I still can move like that when I’m 70 years old. I was so impressed by the strength of people much older than me.
Today we went to Finisterre “lands end”, which was a two hour bus ride from Santiago. This was our first time in a moving vehicle in over a month. The miracle of wheels. It was a perfect sunny day that was probably 80 degrees. We unfortunately forgot the sunscreen and got sunburned! Go figure, I was almost hypothermic a week ago.
After the bus dropped us off in town we hiked up the hill maybe 2-3km to el Faro (the lighthouse). Jonathan had matches and fire starters for our ceremonial boot burning. We took some photos and went down the hill behind the lighthouse which looked like a pilgrim’s belongings cemetery. Burned shoes. Abandoned shoes, clothing and bags. Even abandoned ladie’s underwear. Not really my symbolic choice for ending the Camino but…
I think I envisioned just singeing the boots some but Jonathan put in enough fire starter for a bonfire that could be seen across the Atlantic. One pilgrim had just finished burning his boots and came over to take pictures of ours. Soon we had quite a crowd.
I felt a little guilty being so bad for the environment and all and put most of it out with my Aquarius drink. But then these two German girls (really, it’s comical at this point) jumped right in and put their socks right on top of our shoes that were smoldering trying to light theirs on fire. The fire that they just watched me try to put out. There was no exchange like “hello, can we add to?” or “nice fire” or “hey”. As far as they were concerned it was theirs. It was meant to be kind of a private moment but like moths to a flame. We ended up helping them while we waited for our shoes to cool so we could throw them away. I’m not sure if their socks ever fully burned but we left them.
It’s weird I didn’t think I would feel bad about burning those boots and tossing them but I do. A week ago they were the source of so much disdain and discomfort. I cursed them. But in the end I was grateful that they got me to the end. I think I felt like they had become a part of me. But as a pilgrim must learn on the Camino, we have to let go of such things.
Now a new pair of shoes await me. And a new chapter in life.
Tomorrow we are going to try the mass again. We went Saturday but they didn’t swing the botofumiero (the incense ball) that cleanses the pilgrims. I think they’ve done it at a few evening masses. I hope to see it. I will post more on that part later along with the Compostela and stamps.